Learn Checkers

Checkers is played on an 8x8 board. Only the dark squares are used — pieces never occupy light squares. Each player begins with 12 pieces placed on the dark squares of their nearest three rows. By convention, the board is oriented so that each player has a dark square in their bottom-left corner. One player plays Red (or light-coloured) pieces, the other Black (or dark-coloured). Black moves first.

• Dark square in the bottom-left corner for both players.
• Pieces never touch light squares.

Men (regular pieces) move one square diagonally forward. They cannot move backward. Capturing is mandatory — if you can jump over an opponent's piece, you must. To capture, jump diagonally over the opponent's adjacent piece, landing on the empty square immediately beyond it. The captured piece is removed. If after a capture another capture is available from the new position, you must continue jumping (a multi-jump or chain capture). A single turn can remove multiple opponent pieces in one chain.

• Mandatory capture is the key rule many beginners miss — you have no choice when a jump is available.
• In a chain capture, you cannot stop mid-chain unless no further jumps exist.

When a man reaches the opponent's back row (the farthest row from where it started), it is crowned a King. Place a second piece on top or mark it with a crown. Kings can move and capture diagonally in all four directions — forward AND backward. A piece that becomes a king during a jump cannot continue jumping in the same turn (under standard American rules). Kings are substantially more powerful than men, so promoting pieces is a key strategic goal.

• Two kings versus one king is usually a winning endgame, but requires technique.
• Getting "kinged" quickly is often worth sacrificing a man to advance.

You win by capturing all of your opponent's pieces, or by leaving them with no legal moves (all pieces blocked). A draw occurs by mutual agreement, or when the same position repeats three times, or when no capture has been made for many moves (typically 40). In tournament play, draws are common at high levels — the "Tinsley position" and similar late-game formations are well-studied draws.

The four central dark squares are the most valuable territory on the board. Pieces in the centre control more squares and restrict your opponent's mobility. Beginners often rush pieces toward promotion while ignoring the centre — experienced players contest the centre from move one. The "dog fight" opening (moves toward the centre) is the most common competitive opening for this reason.

• Aim to have at least two pieces controlling the central four squares by move six.
• Forcing your opponent to the edges restricts their options severely.

Because capturing is mandatory, sacrificing a piece can force your opponent to capture in a direction you choose, allowing you to gain position or set up a multi-jump. This is called "giving the exchange." A 2-for-1 exchange (sacrifice one, gain two) is an immediate win in material. Even a 1-for-1 exchange that gains you a better position or a tempo advantage is often worthwhile. Elite-level checkers is largely about forcing your opponent to take pieces they don't want to take.

• If your opponent must capture toward the edge, their piece becomes trapped.
• Look for the "shot" — a two-move sequence where you sacrifice one to win two.

Endgames in checkers are often won or drawn by precise technique. Key principles: keep kings active (a passive king loses), fight for the "move" (who is to play), and understand opposition (two kings on adjacent diagonals). The "bridge" formation (two kings on the same side forming a barrier) is a classic defensive draw technique. If you are ahead in material, trade pieces to reach a king endgame, then use your kings to triangulate and force the win. Many endgames that appear winning are actually draws with best defence.

• King versus two kings is usually a draw if the lone king reaches a corner.
• Three kings versus two kings: the stronger side usually wins, but it may require 20+ moves.

Unlike chess, checkers openings have been deeply analyzed because the game is solved. Major opening systems include: the "Old Fourteenth" (11-15, 23-19, 9-14), the "Single Corner" (11-15, 22-18), and the "Cross" (11-15, 23-18, 8-11). Tournament games are often "ballot openings" — the first move for each side is drawn at random to prevent memorized draws. In practice, the first 10 moves of a position determine whether you are in a "book" draw or a live game.